Food labels, or how to choose the finest Italian products
Italy is a kingdom of food, and its regions protect their unique products by labelling them in a special way. Why? It increasingly happens that, although a product has come from a particular region for centuries, others with no connection to the area, dazzled by its commercial success, start making more or less successful imitations. That is why, when we look at shelves of Italian food, we come across packaging marked with the "DOP", "IGP" or "Made in Italy" logo. What really lies behind these labels?
The "DOP" logo
"DOP" stands for "Denominazione d'Origine Protetta", in other words "Protected Designation of Origin". Very strict rules apply before a product can carry the "DOP" logo. In particular, such a product must meet the highest standards, for instance being made in a defined area that guarantees consistent quality. The ingredients must come from a specified source or even be produced by families who have done so for generations. Production sites are approved by the authorities, and every ingredient used is checked for its quality as well as where it comes from and how it was prepared. Only selected organisations may issue certificates of origin.
The "IGP" label
"IGP" is also a very important clue to the kind of product we are dealing with. The "Indicazione Geografica Protetta", or "Protected Geographical Indication", mark does not come with requirements as restrictive as "DOP", since it is enough for one of the criteria to be met rather than all of them. Nevertheless, "IGP" on a cheese, ham or wine is a sign of quality confirmed by the regional authorities.
In Tuscany 21 products may carry the "DOP" and "IGP" logos, among them Pecorino Toscano DOP, Finocchiona IGP, Cinta Senese DOP, Prosciutto Toscano DOP, Ricciarelli di Siena IGP, Panforte di Siena IGP, Chianti Classico DOP and Toscano IGP olive oil.
The "Made in Italy" label
Paradoxically, a "Made in Italy" sticker is... the weakest proof that you are dealing with a 100% Italian product. What is more, it often does not specify a particular region of origin. "Made in Italy" may mean that a product was processed in Italy, manufactured in Italy or grown in Italy, but only in part. This is often the case with olives; some are grown in Spain but pressed and packed in Italy. As a result they fully qualify for the "Made in Italy" label, even though they grew on Spanish soil.
The finest "DOP" and "IGP" products are promoted at trade fairs such as the one held at the turn of September and October in Siena, Tuscany. "BuyFood Toscana" brought together 45 producers from the region and 38 buyers from 17 countries. The shared platform for the exhibition was the "Vetrina Toscana" project, which links 1000 restaurants and 300 food shops specialising in products from Tuscany. Their cooperation not only promotes healthy, traditional food but also shortens supply chains and encourages eating dishes made with locally grown ingredients, taking into account the seasons in which crops ripen. Local artists also take part in the project, so as to revive the spirit of cooperation between micro-businesses in every respect.
On 30 September 2020, during the "BuyFood Toscana" fair, a television studio was set up in the beautiful Loggia dei Nove of the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena, from which demonstrations of traditional Tuscan cooking were broadcast. Silvia Baracchi, chef at Cortona's Il Falconiere restaurant, presented a recipe for a superb pasta dish based on local ingredients. The artistry with which she prepared "Pici" with pancetta di cinta senese DOP andbricole di panforte nero Siena IGP, commenting live on each stage of creating her culinary masterpiece, won the admiration of the audience gathered in Siena as well as of those who could only admire the delicious dish on their computer screens......
I recommend two pieces about Italian cheeses; here you can read about those from northern Italy, and here about those from southern Italy.
