The best cheeses of southern Italy

Among this year's initiatives of the #TrueItalianTaste project, the certification of shops selling genuine Italian food products is of particular importance.

After vetting the shops that applied, the Italian Chamber selected those that meet specific criteria for selling authentic Italian products - including cheeses from northern and southern Italy - and then issued certificates and a sticker that certified shops are entitled to display in their windows, confirming their participation in the True Italian Taste Network project.

The next stage of the project involves shop owners taking part in masterclass workshops and various events dedicated to Made in Italy products, highlighting and raising awareness of the full range of qualities of Italian products and showing the right way to pass this knowledge on to consumers.

Cacioricotta del Cilento - goat's cheese from Campania

From city to countryside - the story of a Neapolitan whose passion is saving goat's cheese in Campania.

To make the exceptional “Cacioricotta del Cilento”, goats graze on the boundless meadows of Campania, where aromatic plants form the basis of their diet, and a specific production process gives a unique end result. When a family from Naples moved to the Cilento area 27 years ago, they never imagined they would become one of the few guardians of traditional goat's cheese-making methods. Today we too can become part of this story by spending a few days among enthusiasts of a quiet, rural way of life.

We associate Campania with picturesque, bustling Naples, its capital. Campania also means Mount Vesuvius and the ancient city of Pompeii, which keeps surprising archaeologists with new secrets. Campania is the stunning Amalfi Coast and the cultivated plains stretching inland from the shore. Deep in the province rise inaccessible mountains.

The Cilento area has something exceptional to offer food lovers: it is famous for its goats and is home to the local Cilentana breed. It is worth understanding what makes the local pastures so special, namely the Mediterranean maquis that grows there. This layer of vegetation, hard to get through because of its dense thickets, its high proportion of thorny and prickly species and its climbing plants, gives off a strong aroma. This is due to flora with a high content of essential oils. The scent of the plants eaten by the animals is reflected in the local cheeses, which stand out for their aromatic complexity. A special example is “Cacioricotta del Cilento”, named after the unusual technique used to curdle the milk, partly with rennet and partly with heat.

The cheese, which is made all year round, can be eaten fresh (2/3 days), semi-matured or matured (up to 30/40 days).

Goat farming is undoubtedly part of the local economy. But the animals and their grazing have also become a characteristic feature of the Campanian landscape. Promoters of traditional production techniques are trying to preserve this cultural element of the region. The local representatives of the Slow Food Foundation, six farmers and cheesemakers, have set themselves the goal of perfecting cheese-maturing techniques, promoting the little-known fresh and semi-matured Cacioricotta, and helping farmers increase the size of their herds and thus improve efficiency.

The I Filadelfi 1828 farm in Cicerale

One of the places where you can experience a cheese-making process that has been cherished for years is the “I Filadelfi 1828” farm. It is an example of how a “city slicker” from Naples, backed by an IT specialist, can give a second life to a dying artisan farming tradition.

But let's start from the beginning…... Imagine a Neapolitan, a city dweller, falling in love with the green inland countryside of Cilento, which he discovers while out horse riding with friends.

It is 2004 when, together with his whole family, he takes over a farm where goats are raised. Later a dairy starts operating there. And so “I Filadelfi 1828” is born, a farm belonging to Claudio Amendola and his family near the village of Cicerale.

Here, in the middle of nowhere, on meadows that stretch all the way to the horizon, just over a hundred goats graze blissfully. The meadows provide succulent fodder, full of aromas and essential oils that are not lost during processing and that enrich the cheeses made here.

All the milk is transformed thanks to the work of Marco, Claudio's son, a computer science graduate who became a cheesemaker through numerous courses and constant improvement of his skills.

Marco reveals some of the secrets of the cheese-making process: “I heat the milk to 93 ° using steam in boilers in which water circulates at 110-115 °”, and adds: “I never use direct fire”. Marco also reveals other tricks of the trade: “Depending on the effect I want to achieve, I add calf rennet or, for a sharper result, kid rennet”.

The cheese is left to dry on racks and matures in a special chamber for up to 45 days. Its texture is perfectly white, which is typical of goat's milk, and its scent carries the aroma of the herbs and flowers surrounding the farm.

It is worth stressing that “I Filadelfi 1828” also operates as an agritourism. Anyone looking for peace, absolute silence, stunning views and real Cilento cooking should spend a few days here. The owners of “I Filadelfi” warmly invite you to Cicerale, Localita Selvitelle.

Caciocavallo podolico del Gargano from Apulia

On a fortified organic farm, you can taste one of Italy's most aromatic cheeses.

Few people set out to raise Podolico cattle. And yet it is these cows, raised in harsh conditions, that give the milk for the unique “Caciocavallo podolico del Gargano”. The cheese, which often matures in natural caves, can be tasted in exceptional places. Fortified farms that once defended themselves against intruders now stand open and welcome guests.

Apulia, in southern Italy, is flat and fertile. A large share of Italy's olive oil and wine comes from here. In the central part of the province, the stone trulli houses are a delight, especially around Alberobello. Trulli are curious buildings with conical roofs, built on a square or circular plan. They have whitewashed walls and greyish roof tiles of natural stone. The roofs are sometimes painted with mysterious symbols of Christian, pagan and magical origin. Trulli were often built without mortar, as if they were meant to be quickly put up and taken down.

Apulia's culinary heritage is well worth highlighting. Herds of grazing Podolico cows are an unforgettable sight. Their milk is used to make remarkable cheeses, above all “Caciocavallo podolico del Gargano”. Podolico cows were once among the most common in Italy, but today their herds can be found only in a few areas in the south. The pastures there are usually sparse, water is scarce and survival is hard. That is why the yield of these herds is low. One of the few places where a large population of this breed can still be found is the Gargano area.

“Caciocavallo podolico del Gargano” is produced all year round, most intensively from March to May, with a minimum ageing period of three months. Maturing often takes place in natural caves. The result is a very noble product that is practically never used as an ingredient in cooking, because it is eaten on its own. Its bouquet reveals notes of cut grass, bitter flowers, vanilla and other spices. All this makes it one of the most aromatic aged cheeses in Italy.

Masseria Paglicci - a fortified farm in Gargano

One of the places that cares about preserving biodiversity and is committed to producing and promoting local products is Giuseppe Bramante's farm, “Masseria Paglicci”. For many years it has recognised the importance of keeping the local Podolico breed going. Giuseppe proudly points out: “My grandfather was already winning awards - and that was back in 1934 - for his work as a cattle breeder”

The masseria retains the charm of bygone times. The historic 5500 m² building is surrounded by a precious olive grove dating back to the 17th century. Among the most distinctive architectural features are a large, arched stone portal and a large chimney formed by the vault of the room at the centre of which the hearth once stood. The complex has a unique fortified layout. The main building is closed to the outside and open to the inside, with no fewer than three inner courtyards. Centuries ago this layout protected people and animals from dangerous, unwanted visitors.

The farm has traditional structures for collecting rainwater: the water is channelled into a historic cistern carved into the rock in the 17th century. In addition, the estate has 2 circular pools that still serve the residents, as they are fed by rainwater. A former fish pond nearby now serves solely as a refuge for amphibians and completes the picture of a place where sustainable development and organic production are the priority. The whole “Masseria Paglicci” estate covers around 350 hectares.

Today Giuseppe Bramante does not defend himself against visitors; on the contrary, he warmly invites Polish visitors to come and see him at the farm: Azienda Agricola Bramante, Contrada Paglicci, 71010 Rignano Garganico (FG). The complex has guest rooms and a shop where you can also buy “Caciocavallo podolico del Gargano” cheese. You can also treat your palate to wonderful local cuisine on site.

The “Masseria Paglicci” farm works with the “Slow Food” Foundation, as it fits perfectly into the foundation's strategy, which encourages everyone to slow down and use their senses to consciously savour high-quality products. The foundation tries to teach people how to choose good food that is produced in harmony with the environment and local culture.

The Slow Food Foundation promotes “prosumer” attitudes, in which consumers are involved in co-creating and promoting the products of a brand they respect. Through their attitude, prosumers can support local farmers, fishermen, breeders and cheesemakers not only by buying their products, but also by drawing on the wealth of information and advice they can offer. In this way we can learn more about quality and better understand what a healthier, tastier and more responsible diet means.

Maiorchino - sheep's cheese from Sicily

The mighty wheels of “Maiorchino” cheese are part of Sicily's culinary tradition and of the local carnival.

The production of one of Italy's largest sheep's cheeses is under threat, but there are people who are determined to preserve this centuries-old heritage. “Maiorchino” needs long ageing and the production process is complex. The result is an exceptional product whose quality makes its producers so proud that they do not hesitate to roll huge wheels of the cheese down a steep, kilometre-long street during one of their festivals.

Sicily, lying between Europe and Africa, is the largest island in the Mediterranean. It has a magnificent history, made up of a wealth of cultural heritage drawn from many cultures and many points of the compass. Thanks to this, the island is in many respects autonomous and unique. On many occasions you will find that you are dealing with a local language, customs of its own, distinctive architecture and delightful cuisine.

“Maiorchino” is made mainly from whole sheep's milk with the addition of a small amount, up to 20%, of goat's or cow's milk. The animals graze on rich mountain pastures in north-eastern Sicily.

Production takes place from February to early June. The cheese's main characteristic is its large size; it is one of the largest sheep's cheeses in Italy, as it can weigh from 10 to as much as 20 kilograms. Remarkably, traditional equipment is used to make it, and each piece has its own name in the local dialect. There is a galvanised copper cauldron (quarara), an iron “needle” (minacino) and other wooden tools, such as a board (mastrello) and a mould (garbua). Once formed, the cheese is dry-salted for up to 30 days and finally aged (from 4 to 24 months) in underground stone niches, which are cool and damp and fitted with wooden shelves. “Maiorchino” has a cylindrical shape with flat or slightly concave faces and an amber-yellow rind.

Cheese rolling in Novara di Sicilia

“Maiorchino” is linked to a tradition kept alive for centuries during carnival, when the cheese quite unintentionally became the centrepiece of a local festival. This kind of game was once widespread throughout the province of Messina, but today it takes place only in the village of Novara di Sicilia. The custom is said to date back to the early 17th century, when, as a result of rebuilding, the town's main street, Via del Passitto, lost many of its blind alleys and began to run steeply downhill. It was then that farmers and cheesemakers challenged each other to test the quality of the cheese wheels they had made in a clever way. This contest, named after the cheese, also came to be called “Maiorchino”.

What does this tradition involve, why does it stir up so much emotion and what role do the huge cheese wheels play in the game?

The rules of the “Maiorchino” game are very simple. Teams consist of 3 players. First it is decided who goes first. The first player ties a cord around the circumference of the cheese to improve grip, increase speed and allow the direction to be controlled. The signal for the contest to begin is the crowd's shout of “I gammi!”, and the cheese starts rolling downhill. On a course of about a kilometre, not everything has to go smoothly. The cheese may get stuck in hollows (known here as catafurchi) and other nooks. When that happens, it is the next player's turn: he frees the cheese from the trap and sends it on down from the spot it reached. The team that covers the distance to the finish in the fewest “moves” wins.

Domenico Isgrò's farm on the Gulf of Tindari

One of the producers keeping the traditional cheese-making method alive is Domenico Isgrò, whose farm lies on the Gulf of Tindari near Messina.

The farm raises Camisane sheep and goats. All the products made on the farm are sold on site, and Domenico proudly stresses that he deliberately uses production methods that are “archaic”, because “that is how our ancestors handed them down to us”. “We also take great care of animal welfare and general hygiene”, adds Domenico, inviting anyone interested to taste and buy “Maiorchino” cheese at his farm: Azienda Agricola ISGRÒ, Domenico Isgrò Furnari (Me), Contrada Carone.

“Maiorchino” is the fruit of a centuries-old tradition that is sadly in danger of dying out. The production technique is very complex, the cheese needs long ageing, and all this hard work is not rewarded by the market. The efforts of the “Slow Food” Foundation are worth highlighting: it wants to encourage local cheesemakers, such as Domenico, to take up the production of this cheese, which after all has great potential.

Fiore sardo dei pastori from Sardinia

The small town of Ollolai in Sardinia's Barbagia region shows how to fight for your tangible and intangible heritage.

Sardinia's history is full of mysteries with roots reaching back thousands of years. Its proud inhabitants are determined that their traditions should not be forgotten. They find unconventional ways to save their “little homelands”. They fight to ensure that elements of their heritage, such as the sheep's cheese “Fiore sardo dei pastori”, bear witness to their cultural identity for centuries to come.

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean. Its coasts are often high and rocky, with many headlands, several wide, deep bays and straits. Most of the island is covered by mountains and plateaus. The vegetation is mainly maquis: evergreen, thorny and fragrant scrub.

The island has a typical subtropical Mediterranean climate, with around 300 sunny days a year, rainfall concentrated in winter and autumn, and snow in the mountains.

Someone once called Sardinia a place “left by the wayside of time and history”. Shepherds lived in closed communities in the inaccessible mountains, and these areas were so far from the main routes that every attempt to conquer and subjugate the whole island always came to nothing. Sardinia remains largely undiscovered, and speculation that it might have been the mythical Atlantis described by Plato only adds to its mystery.

Looking at the island's history, you will also find many heroic figures. One of them is King Ospitone, who changed its face. According to the letters of Pope Gregory I, King Ospitone converted to Christianity in 594, which made it possible to end the armed conflicts. To this day Ospitone is regarded as a wise and heroic figure.

How Fiore sardo is made

Sardinia also has its own exceptional cheeses. The sheep's cheese “Fiore Sardo dei pastori” is the most outstanding of them. One theory says that the name fiore (“flower”) may be linked to the use of thistle flowers as a source of rennet. Other accounts suggest that the wooden moulds used to make the cheese had a flower pattern. These patterns made it possible to identify which producer a given batch came from.

“Fiore sardo dei pastori” is a cheese with a long history and a strong, distinctive flavour. It is a typical product of the inland communities, particularly in mountainous Barbagia. The traditional production technique has remained essentially unchanged for centuries: immediately after milking, the raw whole milk of Sarda sheep is poured into copper cauldrons and curdled at 32-35 ° C using lamb rennet. After 20-30 minutes, depending on the season, the curd is broken into pieces the size of a grain of rice and left at the bottom of the pot. The curd is then patiently gathered from the bottom of the cauldron and pressed into the characteristic moulds. Once the mass is firm, it is taken out of the mould and left for about 24 hours, then immersed in brine, where it stays for 8-12 hours. The cheeses are then laid on wooden racks or racks woven from cane (“cannizza”) near the fire, where they dry for about 2 weeks. The final stage is maturing for several months (the exact period depends on the producer and their individual style) on the floor of a cool, dry room. Once they have reached the right degree of maturity, the cheeses are periodically rubbed with a mixture of wine vinegar, olive oil and salt. The process seems simple, but it demands the cheesemaker's utmost attention, unhurried movements and a great deal of patience. Although the quantity of cheese produced is fairly small, its quality is truly remarkable.

Salvatore Bussu and the 1-euro houses of Ollolai

The Slow Food Foundation feels responsible for protecting the traditional way of making “Fiore sardo dei pastori” in a few small towns in Barbagia. One of the producers is Salvatore Bussu from Ollolai, who leads a group of local cheesemakers. He and a handful of others like him want to pass on the secrets of artisan cheese-making from generation to generation. Salvatore Bussu stresses that “this pecorino has been made using the same techniques for thousands of years. We have 1800 sheep with 200 acres of land to graze on”, and immediately adds: “Our sheep never eat chemically processed feed”. Salvatore is convinced that “Fiore sardo dei pastori” is an expression of the Sardinian spirit. “It is a strong cheese, like the character of the Sardinians”, he emphasises. “The milk from Sardinian sheep raised free-range in this microclimate cannot be replicated, and it allows us to produce cheeses with a strong, decisive flavour. Unlike many cheeses that can be copied abroad, this cheese remains unique and unrivalled”, he says proudly. Finally, he asks us to keep our fingers crossed for him, because “we are in this year's final of the <Italian Cheese Award> competition. It would be another success for us, after we won the competition in 2019”.Ollolai, small as it is, was on the lips of almost the entire world at the beginning of 2018. It was here that the then mayor, Efisio Arbau, came up with an idea brilliant in its simplicity: to put old, abandoned houses up for sale at the ridiculous price of one euro. Although the buyer had to undertake to carry out renovations estimated to cost 20,000 euros, the prospect of owning an Italian villa in a romantic island setting was extremely tempting. Some of the buyers stressed that “the fresh air, zero smog and beautiful views have healing powers”.
The mayor's initiative was so innovative that media all over the world wrote about it at length. They highlighted the desire to “revive” a town whose population was shrinking year after year. Young people were leaving for bigger cities, and the remaining inhabited houses belonged to the older generation of shepherds and craftsmen.
The mayor stressed that he was concerned not only with the region's material heritage, but also with making sure its traditions were not forgotten. His efforts paid off: 2,500 people applied for the 200 houses put up for sale.
Recently, paradoxically, the town received an extra boost from….. the pandemic. It turned out that the town played host to many remote workers, among them managers from New York, professors from London and researchers from various universities.
That is not the end of the good fortune that little Ollolai in Sardinia's Barbagia has enjoyed recently. People started talking about the town again when none other than Arnold Schwarzenegger spoke warmly about it; his friend, the bodybuilder Franco Columbu, came from here. On top of that, Dutch television filmed a reality show here.
All these events give hope that, just like the reviving town of Ollolai, which not long ago was on the verge of collapse, the way of making the regional cheese “Fiore sardo dei pastori” will find its rightful, and secure, place on the list of Sardinia's intangible heritage.

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