A guide to Porto Santo

Porto Santo is a tiny island cast somewhere into the vastness of the Atlantic, part of the Madeira archipelago. From here Africa is closer than Portugal, of which it is a part. Although Porto Santo is only 10 km long and 4 km wide, it offers a surprising number of attractions.

What sets Porto Santo apart, and what draws tourists as well as residents of nearby Madeira, is its incredible long, wide beach. It is hard to imagine that an island that measures just 10 km from end to end has a sandy beach no less than 9 km long. It is one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, as annual rankings confirm. Its sand has also been shown to have therapeutic properties, especially for rheumatic complaints. Add crystal-clear water and a gentle slope into the sea, and you have a recipe for a wonderful holiday, as in season the island enjoys sunny weather with temperatures above 25 degrees. The beach is never crowded, and even at the height of the season you can relax here in peace. Between the hotels, which are swathed in exotic vegetation, there are plenty of wild dunes and tiny plots of creeping vines.

The only sizeable settlement on Porto Santo is the little town of Vila Baleira. Its Portuguese architecture is harmonious, mixing historic houses with ones built quite recently. Care has been taken to keep the whole pleasing to the eye, with white walls and red roof tiles predominating. You really must look into the house of Christopher Columbus, who lived on the island. In June a renovation will be completed that will make the exhibition devoted to the great explorer even more attractive. The centre of town is a terraced little square with a fountain, from which a palm-lined avenue leads to the pier, with a superb view of the long beach.

Porto Santo by bike

Porto Santo is very well suited to exploring by bike. You can choose routes along the flat coast, or opt for more undulating terrain and even 'conquer the mountains' (around 500 m above sea level). It is a good idea to split the ride over two days so that you get to know both the eastern and the western coast. If your fitness - or electric assistance - allows, you can ride around the island in a single day. Heading east, you first reach the Miradouro da Portela viewpoint. From here there is a view of Vila Baleira and the golden arc of the beach. Further east lies Porto dos Frades, where the asphalt ends. From the small car park you can ride along the cliffs on a gravel road, heading either south or north. Either way, beautiful views of unspoilt nature will keep you company.

Your next stop should be the Casa da Serra open-air museum. An old homestead has been turned into a mini-museum showing the islanders' former way of life, with some of the exhibits displayed outdoors. There is a shop selling local products on site.

Riding on, you will see the highest peaks of Porto Santo. There you can get off your bike and continue on foot. You can choose the PS PR1 trail, a 5.4 km loop that takes 3 hours to walk, or the PS PR2, which is 4.6 km long and takes 2 hours 15 minutes.

Heading east along the north coast, you will find a place called Porto das Salemas, with natural rock pools. Passing the northern end of the airport runway, you enter the wildest part of the island. The routes here are the most demanding, sandy and leading through the dunes. Every now and then you will come across small plots of creeping vines surrounded by little reed fences. They produce the grapes that are turned into the traditional sweet wine with a high alcohol content.

In the western part of the island it is worth visiting the beach in a rocky cove. It lies between two viewpoints: Miradouro do Furado Norte and Miradouro das Flores. The westernmost end of the long beach is called Calheta. Tourists love coming here to watch the sun set in the evening.

Porto Santo is sure to be a great holiday destination for sporty people. There is a golf course (one of three in the Madeira Archipelago) and a tennis complex. You can catch the wind in your sails and enjoy some windsurfing. As well as cycling, it is worth going trekking. There are two trailheads for waymarked walking routes: PS PR1 forms a 5.4 km loop that takes 3 hours to walk. PS PR2 is a 4.6 km route that takes 2 hours 15 minutes.

Porto Santo's cuisine

The culinary calling card of the islands - both Madeira and Porto Santo - is bolo do caco, a flatbread made from wheat flour. Its name comes from the fact that until recently it was baked on a basalt stone called a 'caco' over glowing coals. It is flat with rounded sides. It is traditionally served with garlic butter. Tourists never fail to try it, and mainland Portuguese associate it unmistakably with island cooking.

Another delicacy is espetada, skewered marinated beef rubbed with bay leaves and garlic (the garlic is not peeled, only crushed). In the past espetada was threaded onto a bay-tree stick and roasted over a wood fire. Today a metal skewer and a grill are used. Many restaurants have special tables with iron stands from which the delicious espetada hangs, and guests pull off the pieces of meat themselves.

Espetada goes beautifully with fried cornmeal 'cubes' called milho frito. They are made from a maize mixture somewhat reminiscent of polenta. Garlic, finely chopped kale, water and olive oil are added to it. The whole thing is cut into cubes and then fried.

The traditional drink - besides Madeira wine - is poncha. Originally it consisted of brandy, cane sugar and lemon peel. Today it comes in many flavours, the best known being made with lemon juice, orange juice, honey and brandy. The proportions are chosen so that the alcohol content is 16-25%. Before pouring, the mixture is stirred with a special wooden stick called a "caralhinho". The stirring of the poncha often brings smiles to the faces of those at the table. Once someone explains to you the term 'caralhinho', which also has an anatomical meaning, you will probably smile too.

Among the seafood, the so-called lapas are something special. These are molluscs that cling to the rocks along the coast, known to experts as limpets. They are usually served as a starter, grilled in their own shells and seasoned with plenty of garlic, then brought to the table in a hot pan, drizzled with butter and a little lemon. Bolo do caco bread goes perfectly with them.

Recommended restaurants include: Torres, now run by the fourth generation of the same family; Sabores na Brasa, with friendly service; Tabua Rasa, close to the pier in the town centre; and Mercado Velho, which occupies the building of a former small market hall.

You can reach Porto Santo by ferry or by plane. The airport, with a modern terminal, has been operating since 1960. There are connections from Lisbon or Porto, or you can fly in on tour operators' charters. If you are on Madeira, you can opt for the ferry. It leaves Funchal at around 8:00 and returns to Madeira late in the evening. Day trips from the larger island are a very popular choice with tourists, although they leave feeling that they ought to have stayed longer. There are also flights operated by the airline Binter. The flight takes barely a quarter of an hour, as Madeira and Porto Santo are only 50 km apart. The marina and ferry terminal are 2 km from town, so you can walk to Vila Baleira or take a taxi or a public bus.

Tiny Porto Santo has a lot to offer. It can be the goal of a day trip from Madeira, but it also works very well as a place to spend an entire holiday. There are no queues for attractions, no hustle and bustle and no crowds of tourists, and the gorgeous beach is never packed. Those who enjoy an active holiday will feel at home here too, and so will food lovers.