Around Scotland by electric car
It all happened very quickly. I learnt on social media that my mate Krzysztof was planning to drive around Scotland in his electric BMW i3. Since the dates suited me, and the two of us shared some interesting memories from our secondary-school days, the decision was a foregone conclusion.
I was to be in charge of navigation, while my friend took the wheel. The route was decided in advance: to complete the NC500 scenic drive. The North Coast 500 is a relatively new creation of tourism marketing, as its history only goes back to 2015. Its 516 well-signposted miles run along the Scottish coast. Today it is often listed as one of the 5 most spectacular coastal routes in the world. A beautiful route, often through remote country, and a silent but potentially temperamental little electric car. By temperamental I mean its dependence on infrastructure. There are fewer charging points than in the central part of the island, the temperature is lower, and rainfall and the salt content of the air are higher. All this may mean that charging will not always go to plan everywhere. Flying Wizz Air from Warsaw's Okęcie airport to Glasgow on a July evening in 2017, I wondered how we would cope with these challenges.
Luss on Loch Lomond and the first charge
Setting off from Glasgow, we head for the village of Luss, charmingly set on the shores of Loch Lomond. It is the largest body of fresh water in Scotland and lies within the country's oldest national park. The village is pretty, if a little lifeless. We walk around it twice, getting used to the drizzle and the low-hanging clouds.
Our next stop is a charging point. It has been installed next to a large ski resort. The size of the car park shows how crowded it gets in winter; today just a few mountain bikers are using the lift to take them to the top of the mountain. The charger “fires up” without a hitch. We are doubly protected against any charging costs: a special card starts the flow of electricity, and on top of that Scotland is covered by a free charging scheme.
We have a few moments for a meal; time flies in the mountain café. By the time we come out, the car is fully charged. You can easily cover 130 miles on a single charge, with a back-up in the form of a small petrol engine (of the kind used in scooters), which in an emergency will top up the battery enough for another 80 miles. The car handles superbly; you can feel the low centre of gravity keeping it stable. The two people in the front sit very comfortably. In our case the back seats and the boot are loaded with luggage, most of it bags of beer and wine. Luckily, this cargo will shrink day by day…
Glencoe, Fort William and Mallaig
We head for Glencoe, one of the best places to admire the majesty of the Scottish mountains. The road winds between mighty peaks, sometimes dark and brooding, sometimes bright and graceful. We stop by a small stream, with a homestead and flocks of sheep in the distance, while right beside us a piper adds to the spell with his playing.
Watch on YouTubeWe park in Fort William. This pretty seaside town is a good base for exploring the area. We stroll along the main pedestrian street, enjoying the sunshine that has unexpectedly started to light up the surroundings.
We drive on to Mallaig, the port for ferries to the Isle of Skye. Another rapid charger is waiting for us there. This time, instead of a meal, we opt for a short walk while the car charges.
A special mobile app lets you keep track of the battery charge. We know exactly what percentage they are “filled with electricity” and how many minutes remain until they are full. Of course, you can stop charging and drive off at any moment. It dawns on me that a trip in a zero-emission car is a bit like travelling with a small child. Here, too, we have to adapt our plans somewhat to the sleep and meal times of our little travelling companion. But is that a sacrifice? I do not see it that way; it is a chance to see things differently, at a different pace.
Isle of Skye - castles and whisky distilleries
We sail to the Isle of Skye, fully charged, the next morning. The island is Scotland in miniature. In a relatively small area there is everything you need to see: a beautiful coastline, mountains, rivers and streams. There are castles and whisky distilleries.
Driving around Scotland, I kept comparing it with other similar landscapes I remembered. Usually these were images of Norway or New Zealand. But what sets Scotland apart are precisely its beautiful castles, both ruined and well preserved, and its highly distinctive whisky distilleries.
Whisky making is a whole philosophy, with fascinating 19th-century buildings in beautiful locations. It is worth visiting at least one distillery, and connoisseurs can take advantage of a special scheme: once you have visited several of them, you can tour the next ones for free. Tours end with a tasting, and drivers get their golden dram “to take away”. You can savour it from the engraved glass you receive as a souvenir of your visit.
Touring the Isle of Skye, we tick off its main sights: Elgol harbour, the little town of Portree, the Talisker distillery, the river cascades of the Fairy Pools and Dunvegan Castle.
It is confirmed that the island has more than its share of stunning coastal and mountain scenery, fortified castles and atmospheric monasteries. Our car attracts attention everywhere, more than I would have expected. People ask similar questions about range and costs. The fact that the car can be run almost for free arouses the most enthusiasm. There must be something in that Scottish drive to save wherever and as much as possible…
Another charge done, this time at Ullapool Harbour. We eat steak & kidney pie while the car gobbles up electrons.
Dunnet Head, John O’Groats and Loch Ness
The next leg takes us to Durness on the north coast, and then on to Dunnet Head. This is the northernmost tip of mainland Britain. The only problem is that… few people know it. Wind-lashed cliffs, a solitary lighthouse and a car park for a dozen or so cars are all there is. There are no tourist facilities at all. And people come here not so much to “conquer” the furthest point of the mainland as to watch, through powerful binoculars, the seabirds that keep launching themselves off the cliffs towards the open sea. With a bit of luck you can even spot a puffin.
John O’Groats is a place without which our trip would not have been complete. This is where everyone heads, so that afterwards they can boast of having reached the furthest tip of Great Britain. Strictly against the rules, we drive our BMW right up to the famous signpost. Luckily the car is whisper-quiet and produces no exhaust fumes, so our invasion causes no particular stir or objections from anyone. From this point it is 690 miles to London and 2,200 to the North Pole. To get there in an electric car, you will have to wait a little longer.
Heading back south along Scotland's east coast, we visit Dunrobin Castle, surrounded by beautiful gardens. Along the way we meet the distinctive shaggy Highland cattle, which nature has equipped with huge horns.
Another curiosity is the kilts worn by real Scots. We did not meet many men dressed like that, but we did manage to capture a few in photos.
Near Fort Augustus, on the shores of Loch Ness, as we pull up to a charger we see another car of the same make plugged in. It seems fully charged already, but it is blocking the equipment for us. Well, that can happen too. Luckily we have enough charge left to drive on to the next one. So: no electricity, and no sign of the monster in the loch either.
Does an electric car work in Scotland
Scotland is beautiful and relatively inexpensive. Norway's landscapes will certainly cost the traveller more. True, you will not see glaciers, but the castles and whisky tastings can make up for that. An electric car copes very well in such an unforgiving setting, and after only a few kilometres it is tremendous fun: it runs silently and at no cost. Driving is a pleasure, and the charging stops are not wasted time; they give you a chance to use it differently, but just as usefully.
If you would like to read about the challenge of crossing Africa in an electric car, take a look at my (click the link) interview with Arkady Fiedler. I have also published my impressions of driving (click the link) the hybrid MINI
The route of our Scottish trip:
