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Family holidays in South Bohemia

Krzysztof Kowalski 11 min read

“Jižní Čechy”, “South Bohemia” or simply southern Czechia is an administrative region of the Czech Republic, comparable to a Polish province. Located in the south of the country, it borders Austria and the German state of Bavaria and is known for its picturesque landscape, with numerous lakes, forests, rivers and ponds. The largest river flowing through it is the Vltava.  South Bohemia has a rich history going back to the Middle Ages. Many of its towns and villages have preserved their historic centres, which makes them popular tourist destinations. 

Červená Lhota Palace and the legend of its red walls

Červená Lhota Palace is considered one of the most picturesque historic sites in the Czech Republic
Červená Lhota Palace is considered one of the most picturesque historic sites in the Czech Republic

Červená Lhota Palace http://www.zamek-cervenalhota.cz is considered one of the most picturesque historic sites in the whole country. And I wholeheartedly agree. It was once three separate buildings that were joined together. A keen eye will notice that windows, floors and ceilings are not always on the same level. The decision to dig the pond surrounding the palace was also made around 200 years after it was built, and the first mentions of a fortress on this site date back to the 14th century. The red colour of the building is intriguing, and of course a legend is on hand with an explanation... Centuries ago, an unhappy woman threw herself from a palace window. A bloody stain remained on the white wall that simply could not be painted over. There was no other option but to paint the whole building red. After the war the palace served as a children's hospital and then as a holiday centre. The palace interiors are very well preserved, and in one room stands a stuffed bear. A tale passed down by word of mouth says that this hunting trophy found no peace even after death. One day, during a search for a thief hiding in the palace, the unfortunate bear was shot at because in the half-light it looked like the wanted villain. You can walk around the palace along the water's edge. It is sure to impress the whole family. It is worth mentioning that it offers special rates for children and young people (under 6 - free, up to 17 - 60 CZK, up to 24 - 160 CZK, adults 200 CZK)

The Jindřichův Hradec castle and château complex

The town of Jindřichův Hradec has a very picturesque setting among lakes and ponds
The town of Jindřichův Hradec has a very picturesque setting among lakes and ponds

Did you know that the third largest castle and château complex in the Czech Republic is in the town of Jindřichův Hradec? Only Prague and Český Krumlov can boast mightier buildings. What sets this picturesque town http://www.jh.cz in the south of the country apart from the other two is that it does not suffer from the modern-day affliction known as “overtourism”. It is not crowded here, the town lives its own life, residents still feel at home and the urban fabric is authentic. It is one of the oldest towns in the Jižní Čechy region http://www.jiznicechy.cz, with a rich history going back to the Middle Ages. The town was founded in the 13th century by the Vítkovci family. It takes its name from its founder, Jindřich of Hradec. Over the centuries the town developed as an important commercial and administrative centre. In the 16th century it passed to the Slavata family and then to the Czernins, who contributed to its heyday. In the centre is a picturesque square surrounded by colourful townhouses that have kept their historic character. The square also has a historic town hall, but the town's biggest attraction is its castle. Its mighty silhouette is best admired from the fish ponds, whose surface reflects the outline of the building. A path along the ponds leads to the main entrance, on the Old Town side. Centuries ago there were 3 separate buildings here, which successive owners linked with a network of arcades, creating a large courtyard. In it stands a well covered by a colourful openwork structure full of wrought-iron plant motifs. The castle is so huge that several tour routes run through it, including one created specially for children. Children and teenagers can discover what children's rooms and toys used to look like.

The rotunda in the Jindřichův Hradec castle and château complex is beautifully decorated inside
The rotunda in the Jindřichův Hradec castle and château complex is beautifully decorated inside

The castle was constantly being rebuilt, and from time to time it was ravaged by fire. Fortunately, one wing has kept its 16th-century style (gorgeous ceilings!). A richly decorated rotunda was built in the castle garden. Balls were held inside. Look out for the small hole right in the middle of the floor. According to the custom of the time, the musicians were not allowed to see the guests enjoying themselves. They were hidden in... the cellar, and the sound came out through this very hole. It was spread by a specially constructed bottomless jug that acted as a giant loudspeaker. Today the castle makes both the rotunda and the castle chapel available for weddings.

Krýza's nativity scene - the world's largest mechanical crib

This nativity scene is not only the largest in the world but also made with great precision
This nativity scene is not only the largest in the world but also made with great precision

Did you know that the world's largest mechanical folk nativity scene, entered in the Guinness Book of Records in 1998, is in the town museum of Jindřichův Hradec? It was created by Tomáš Krýza (1838-1918), a master stocking-maker. The work took him more than sixty years! Every Christmas, visitors could admire the ever-growing work of art, which when finished consisted of 1,400 figures, almost two hundred of them movable. After Tomáš Krýza's death, his son Jan donated the nativity scene in 1935 to the collections of the Museum in Jindřichův Hradec http://www.mjh.cz. The installation consists of several parts with different themes. The nativity scene includes not only traditional Gospel scenes such as the birth of Jesus and the arrival of the Three Kings, the flight of the Holy Family into Egypt, the “massacre of the innocents” and figures of Jewish high priests, but also typical South Bohemian images. In many places you can admire a poetic rural landscape with architectural details, illustrating people's lives in the 19th century. In 2017-2023 the entire mechanism and all the figures underwent a complete overhaul.

Right next to the Jindřichův Hradec town museum is the "House of Tapestries"
Right next to the Jindřichův Hradec town museum is the "House of Tapestries"

The museum has plenty of other exhibits that may interest whole families http://www.dumgobelinu.cz It is also well prepared for younger visitors and offers them discounted tickets (children under 6 free, 180 CZK - family ticket: both parents with at least one child under 15. Standard ticket - 90 CZK)

Czech Canada and the Obludiště maze

Czech Canada means dense forests, numerous lakes, ponds, peat bogs and hilly terrain
Czech Canada means dense forests, numerous lakes, ponds, peat bogs and hilly terrain

Jindřichův Hradec is an excellent base for exploring the region known as Czech Canada http://www.ckanada.cz. But have you ever heard of Czech Canada? The term “Czech Canada” (Česká Kanada) refers to an area near the Austrian border, roughly between the towns of Jindřichův Hradec, Nová Bystřice and Slavonice. It was first used in the 1920s by local journalist Jaroslav Jiskra. Since then it has gained popularity and come to be used in promoting the region, whose distinctive landscape supposedly resembles Canada. Here you will find dense forests, numerous lakes, ponds, peat bogs, hilly terrain and wild nature. The climate is also harsher than in other parts of the country. Czech Canada offers numerous hiking and cycling trails and leisure opportunities such as swimming in the lakes or fishing.

Obludiste is fun for the whole family
Obludiste is fun for the whole family

On the outskirts of Jindřichův Hradec is an area called “Obludiste” http://www.obludiste.cz It is a place where you can spend a whole day full of excitement, and its centrepiece is a huge maze made of a living hornbeam hedge. The maze is enormous, reportedly one of the largest in this part of Europe. Walking through it gives you a slight thrill, because you think you know where you are, only to discover that your senses are deceiving you. You get a map, and if you find several hidden sculptures and passwords, you take part in a prize competition. Those who would rather skip the game can watch the participants from a special platform (which also has a spot for souvenir selfies).

A huge maze that gives you a thrill
A huge maze that gives you a thrill

Apart from the maze, all the other attractions are free. There are two rafts on a small pond - perfect for a race! There is a clever system of fountains fed by a pump driven by your own muscle power, with the water flowing in a closed loop. There is also a zip line, a large playground and a bar. There are 3 tracks down which you can roll special wooden balls. Watching them negotiate one obstacle after another, making... music along the way, is truly absorbing. In a word - an attraction for the whole family for almost an entire day.

Romanesque Landštejn Castle

At Landštejn Castle everyone can feel like a "knight" or a "princess"
At Landštejn Castle everyone can feel like a "knight" or a "princess"

Landštejn Castle is one of three surviving Romanesque castles in the Czech Republic http://www.hrad-landstejn.cz and ranks among the most important Romanesque monuments in Europe. Tracing the castle's history, you come across the Jagiellonian dynasty, and in particular Vladislaus II Jagiellon, who was King of Bohemia from 1471 and King of Hungary from 1490. During his reign Landštejn Castle lay within the Kingdom of Bohemia, which was part of his realm. In season, the castle hosts events evoking past centuries. Which of us has never dreamed of being a brave knight or a beautiful princess... Landštejn Castle lets our imagination travel back to mysterious bygone ages. The ticket prices are attractive too: children under 5 get in free, those aged 6-17 pay only 40 CZK, 18-24-year-olds 110 CZK and adults 140 CZK.

Muzeum veteránů Nová Bystřice - American classic cars

Everybody loves American road cruisers!
Everybody loves American road cruisers!

The exhibition, which goes by the name “Muzeum veteránů Nová Bystřice”, is a real feast for anyone with a soft spot for American cars http://www.muzeumveteranu.cz. The museum takes us on a journey through a hundred years of mobility in the USA. It is conceived as a walk through time, with each room evoking a particular period of the last century. We see representatives of makes both long gone and still thriving. The eye is drawn to the display of Lincoln models, which experts consider the largest publicly accessible collection of this brand's cars in Europe. Most of the Lincolns on display date from 1922-1937. They usually have 8- or 12-cylinder engines of around 6 litres, with outputs ranging from 90 to 150 hp. The centre of the exhibition is taken up by a family of pre-war cars, including vehicles bearing the “Imperial” badge. This was the name of the luxury brand spun off from Chrysler, associated with the designer Virgil Exner. These cars are still regarded as full of beauty, timeless design, originality and eye-catching shapes. The next room recalls 1960s Manhattan. Chrome, massive engines and tail sections styled like rocket fins. The cars matched their era: a time of prosperity, wealth and extravagance, when the future was seen through rose-tinted glasses.

The Muzeum veteránů Nová Bystřice has a special play corner for children
The Muzeum veteránů Nová Bystřice has a special play corner for children

A separate part of the museum is devoted to cars that starred in famous films. Here you can see a Pontiac Trans Am, a Chevrolet Camaro and a Ford Mustang. There is a bar on site and a children's playroom where, naturally, cars take centre stage. There is also no shortage of crayons, felt-tip pens and colouring books.

Slavonice - sgraffito and a bison farm

Right next to Slavonice there is a bison farm where you can watch the herds grazing
Right next to Slavonice there is a bison farm where you can watch the herds grazing

It is worth visiting little-known Slavonice http://www.slavonice-mesto.cz, whose highlight is its houses with façades decorated in the sgraffito technique. This decorative technique involves applying several layers of plaster in different colours to a surface and then scratching or cutting away parts of them to reveal the layers below and create a multicoloured pattern or image. Sgraffito became especially popular in Renaissance Europe, particularly in Italy. Slavonice has preserved outstanding examples of this technique from the 16th century. To this day, beneath later layers of paint, there are very well-preserved building façades decorated in this way. Near Slavonice there is a Bison Farm that is well worth a visit http://www.bisonranch.cz

South Bohemia makes an interesting choice for a holiday. This area of exceptional landscapes has many attractions, including old castles and palaces, historic towns and interesting museums. Despite so many attractions, it is not yet overrun by tourists - it is easy to find a parking space everywhere, just a short walk from the sight you want to see. The younger members of a Polish family will feel at ease here thanks to the cultural and linguistic closeness. All this, combined with the choice of restaurants and hotels, makes for a comfortable few active days for the whole family.

The Old Town Square in Jindřichův Hradec
The Old Town Square in Jindřichův Hradec

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