How to drive around Iceland in a week and treasure the memories for years
Here is how you can spend 8 intense days in Iceland. Where to see breathtaking landscapes, how to get close to a glacier and geysers, almost touch icebergs, watch puffins, stroll along one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, bathe in hot springs and gaze at boiling, unbelievably smelly mud pools. These memories will keep coming back for years.
Day one
On a July evening, after a direct flight from Warsaw, our Wizzair plane touched down smoothly at Keflavik airport (KEF) at 20.10. The airport is 50 km from Iceland's capital, Reykjavik. The drive from the airport to the city centre alone shows that you are in another world. Grey, rippled volcanic rock, partly eroded, gives the impression of having landed somewhere on the Moon. The Flybus from the airport costs the equivalent of about 170 PLN per person. Iceland redefines the word "expensive", but it also surprises you, because some items that usually eat up a travel budget can be ignored altogether. But more on that in a moment.
Given our late arrival, there was no point in being clever, and the first night was spent in Reykjavik. An adult pays 160 PLN for a bed in a 6-bed mixed dorm at the "Reykjavik City Hostel", and a child "only" 115. First contact with Icelanders shows that they are friendly Scandinavians, honest and with excellent English.
Day two
After a night spent slightly on edge (did I snore...?), it is time for breakfast. The hostel's shared kitchen is clean and cosy. People leaving Iceland have left plenty of unused food on the shelves. It is neatly sorted, and signs encourage you to help yourself to whatever others had left over. To be honest, I had the feeling that if I were to spend a few days in this hostel, I would never once need to go food shopping.
In a hired car we head towards Thingvellir National Park, less than 50 km from the capital. And while Iceland shocks you with its prices at every turn, it turns out that entry to (almost) all the nature-based tourist attractions is free. A huge item disappears from the traveller's budget.
You are probably wondering whether to go for an ordinary car or a raised 4x4. Let me put it this way: you will reach 90% of places in Iceland in a normal passenger car, and you won't make it to the remaining 10% anyway in what, from a Polish perspective, you would call an off-roader. I had a solid four-wheel-drive Nissan X-TRAIL and still had to give up on a route reserved for 4x4s. Only specially adapted vehicles could go there, ideally Big Foot-style trucks on monstrous wheels with sky-high ground clearance.
Back to Thingvellir. It is crowded there, by Icelandic standards, because being so close to the capital makes it a natural day-trip destination. You can explore the rolling green landscape of streams and small lakes on well-marked paths. For me the most fascinating thing was knowing that I was walking on one of the most dangerous places on earth. Why? Because right there, many kilometres below the surface, two continental plates meet: the Eurasian and the North American. Geologically speaking, you step from one continent to another without even realising it.
The next item on the programme is a cluster of geysers, the most famous of which is Geysir. Yes, the similarity of names is no coincidence. It is after this Icelandic word that similar geological phenomena around the world were named. With astonishing regularity, the geyser erupts, hurling masses of water into the air. With Scandinavian pragmatism, the Icelanders warn against testing the water temperature (80 - 90 degrees) with signs saying that "the nearest hospital is 62 km away". I think it works. Although there were plenty of tourists, no screams of scalded people could be heard...
Nearby Gullfoss is one of Iceland's famous waterfalls. It is mighty. I don't know whether I have ever seen such a huge mass of water suddenly plunging down with a roar. The fine spray lets the sun's rays paint a lovely rainbow over the torrent.
Thingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss make up the so-called Golden Circle, an area of easily accessible attractions located around the capital.
Having had our fill of the waterfall, we continue inland along the Kjolur road (F35). After a few kilometres the tarmac ends, the gravel begins and we enter the interior. We reach Hveravellir, considered the best place to bathe in natural, untouched geothermal springs.
Ahead of us lies our first freezing night in a tent. The further you are from the sea, the colder it gets.
Day three
The dawn is gorgeous, and a walk among multicoloured pools gets the blood flowing. You have to take the chance of a (free) dip in the hot natural pool. Next to a small wooden hut there is a rocky basin. Scalding water pours into the hollow from one side and icy water from the other. The whole charm of the bath lies in finding the spot where the two streams mix. It is wonderful to soak in the mineral water, rather less so to get out when it is so fresh outside.
We drive on along the gravel, which later turns into good tarmac once we reach the northern side of the island.
After a stop for shopping in Akureyri, we carry on. To buy food, it is best to stop at one of the Bonus supermarkets. Look out for the ubiquitous Prince Polo, our Polish chocolate wafer: made in Cieszyn, it has been the most popular sweet snack on the island for years.
As we approach Lake Myvatn, we stop at another beautiful waterfall, Godafoss. The area around Lake Myvatn is a real treasure trove of varied tourist attractions, but it is also notorious for its enormous population of tiny midges. There really are millions of them, maybe even billions, forming little clouds that drift above the ground. Perhaps they behave differently in the evening, but during the day they completely ignore people. It is worth walking the paths around the lake and you really must climb the crater of the Hverfjall volcano. A straightforward trail leads up, and once you reach the top you can walk around the rim.
Turning off the main road, you pass the black rock formations of Dimmuborgir; several walking trails let you explore this "dark city", as the Icelanders call it. There are several trails of varying difficulty and length. Watch out for trolls and elves; apparently the area is full of them.
Near Lake Myvatn is one of the most important geothermal bathing centres. Myvatn Nature Baths is neither as famous nor as packed as the much-hyped Blue Lagoon near the capital, and it is sure to be a highlight of the trip.
We spend the night at one of the campsites around the lake.
Day four
The morning wakes us with glorious sunshine, so we eat breakfast on a blanket on the grass right next to the tent. We head further east and stop at a place full of muddy pools, small bubbling bogs scattered among multicoloured, pastel hills. The stench is hard to bear. The fumes don't just get up your nose; you feel they are reaching the furthest corners of your brain. Honestly, the only thing I could compare this revolting smell to was what I experienced in the tanneries of Morocco. Nevertheless, it is something different, something unique, and an absolute must.
Continuing along Route 1, we head sharply north. Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. At 100 metres wide and 45 high it is not the biggest, but there is no waterfall in Europe with a greater volume of water flowing over it. I have to say that the sheer force of it is unimaginable; it is as if someone had split the sea in half and tried to pour it from one side to the other.
After another 30 km we reach the Asbyrgi canyon, where we pitch our tent for the night.
Day five
Asbyrgi is a canyon shaped like a horseshoe. Did the eight-legged horse of the god Odin from Norse mythology leave this mark on the landscape centuries ago? Scientists point rather to glacial floods that reshaped the land 10,000 and 3,000 years ago. The horseshoe print is 3.5 km long and 100 metres deep. You can walk along the cliff edge, looking down at the ground below and across to the other side, a kilometre away. The symmetry of the canyon is astonishing and clearly visible at the far end of the gorge. From there you can make out the path leading to the Botnstjorn pond, surrounded by lush vegetation. It is every bit as charming as the mountain tarns of the Tatras. Nearby, the Hljodaklettar rock columns are fascinating. Here the rocks form a kind of honeycomb, arranged like polygonal stone blocks.
Tempted by stories about the Askja volcano and undeterred by the warning that the road we had chosen would involve river crossings (after all, we had an off-road Nissan X-TRAIL 4x4!), we pass the "Askja 108 km" sign and immerse ourselves in a raw, otherworldly landscape. That description is no exaggeration, because this is exactly where American astronauts trained before setting off on the first journey to the Moon.
Watch on YouTubeWe tackled the first ford with our hearts in our mouths, reading the gauge driven into the riverbed in our own favour. Green means a decent 4x4 can go, yellow means a "big foot" raised on huge wheels will make it, and red means nobody will. After several dozen kilometres, before the second ford, we had to decide to turn back. Several more river crossings lay ahead, and there was a serious risk that we were not ready for such a challenge, either mentally or, in the car's case, mechanically.
We spend the night at another campsite, on the east coast, near the village of Reydarfjordur.
Day six
The first half of the day is spent clocking up kilometres along the southern and eastern coast. After the initial delight, the road starts to get a little tedious and the scenery begins to feel ordinary. Suddenly, on the right, against the backdrop of the hills, we start to make out Iceland's largest glacier, covering more than 13% of the country. Together with the surrounding land, it is also the largest national park in Europe. And there is one more superlative: it has been measured that in perfect visibility it can be seen from as far as 550 km away. As part of the "longest line of sight", it has made it into Guinness World Records. But we are slowly approaching the place that will be my most unforgettable sight in Iceland. We arrive at Lake Jokulsarlon. Pale blue blocks of ice drifting majestically towards the sea create an extraordinary landscape. The ice sparkles in the sun, and the warm rays carve it into all kinds of shapes.
The calving glacier and floating icebergs have been the backdrop for several films, including blockbusters about the adventures of agent 007. It is also worth driving over to Fjallsarlon; the icebergs here are less spectacular, but the glacier seems closer. Better still, walk right up to its snout. You can do that by turning off the main road (Route "1" towards Reykjavik) for Skaftafellsstofa. You leave the car in the car park and follow the trail to the monstrous wall of ice and snow. Meltwater flows out from underneath, forming a wide river.
Watch on YouTubeDriving on, don't miss the signpost for Fjadrargljufur. This gorgeous place is rarely listed among Iceland's "must sees", yet it definitely belongs there. It is a deep canyon with sheer rock walls. It creates picturesque vistas, as the river meanders between huge cliffs that hem it in alternately from the left and from the right. On top of that, everything is green. The constant damp means you are surrounded by a sea of green mosses and lichens.
For night number 6 we try to find somewhere with a roof, so we can get a good sleep in a proper bed. The day ends in rain, which makes us even keener to ask around for a room. It turns out that everything is booked and our chances drop to zero. Our tent goes up on the soggy grass. Just as we are ready for bed, a member of the campsite staff does his rounds; we pay by credit card, as he conveniently has a portable terminal to hand.
Day seven
We have almost completed the loop of Iceland, and as we enter the most densely populated areas, more tourists appear. We head for Reynisfjara beach. It is exceptional for many reasons. Once again there are the cube-like rocks, an astonishing geological formation. On the beach they form a large rocky cave. Don't come looking for soft white sand. The whole shore is covered in smooth, rounded black pebbles. They are hard to walk on, but they are unique and beautiful. A few jagged sea stacks standing just offshore add to the charm. Overhead, puffins take off again and again from the high cliff. This bird is a living symbol of Iceland. It has a big head and short red legs. It is a superb flyer, diver and swimmer. It is less good at walking, and its clumsy waddle has earned it the nickname "clown of the sea". Reynisfjara was named one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world by "Islands Magazine"; it was the only non-tropical beach in the ranking.
We drive to the Skogafoss waterfall. Spoilt by the views of the previous few, we put this one at the bottom of our ranking. Then there is the Kerid volcanic crater; it owes its distinction to being the only attraction on the island... that we had to pay for. It is neither as high nor as interesting as Hverfjall, but it does have a small lake in its basin.
In the evening we succeed in finding a room with a roof over our heads. The last night is spent in Hveragerdi. Thanks to the 2008 earthquake, many geothermal springs appeared here. The town has several restaurants advertising cooking with hot steam rising straight from the depths of the earth. Tourists we meet urge us to go down to the nearby river. There, at a weir a few metres high, you can watch salmon leaping out of the water as they try to clear the obstacle on their journey upstream to their spawning grounds. It is worth considering the 3 km trail to the Reykjadalur valley, where you can bathe in a hot river. Sadly, we no longer had time for it.
Day eight
We devoted the last day to Reykjavik. We had suspected it before, but now we were sure: the national dish of Iceland is... the hot dog. The best "pylsur", as they are called here, can be found at the stand near Kolaportid. You have to wait patiently in a long queue to taste the same kind that Bill Clinton once ate here.
The most interesting museum in Reykjavik is the Icelandic Phallological Museum. Visitors can take a closer look at more than 200 penises of various mammals living on earth. The largest is that of a sperm whale, weighing 70 kg and measuring 170 cm, and the smallest is a hamster's 2 mm member. The three human penises on display fall somewhere between those two extremes. One of the gadgets sold in the museum shop, such as a bottle opener or a key ring, makes an unusual present.
The most photographed building in the capital is the Hallgrimskirkja church. It is one of the tallest buildings in the country, with a tower 73 metres high. The concrete façade resembles basalt columns, and the pews inside can be turned to face the altar during services or the organ when you come for a concert.
We end our stay in the Icelandic capital on a strong note: a tasting of... rotten shark. The best place to try it is the market hall. The meat reeks horribly of ammonia and tastes even worse; on the tongue it burns like sherbet powder, and the concentrated smell of urine rising through your nostrils completes the culinary experience.
Iceland is an interesting and beautiful country in every respect. If anything, it has a surplus of natural and scenic attractions. But it is worth mentioning what Iceland doesn't have. There is no army and not a single railway line. Icelanders don't have typical surnames either. Their "surnames" are formed from their father's first name. A daughter adds the ending "dottir" to his name and a son adds "son", which is why first names are what counts in official records.
It is hard to find another European country that stands out so much, so different from the rest of the continent. Once remote, it is now within easy reach: from several Polish airports you can fly there direct with a budget airline in a few hours. You will go for a few days and remember it for years. Highly recommended!
