Slovakia's Orava - a region full of attractions just across the border
The easiest way to reach Orava is to cross the border at Chyżne or Chochołów. The first crossing handles a lot of transit traffic, while the second is conveniently placed for combining a holiday in Orava with a visit to Zakopane (or the other way round). Only 35 km separate Trstená from Poland's Tatra capital. How many times have we crossed the border and carried on south across Europe, without realising that we were driving straight past a region full of attractions?
Oravice, Zuberec, open-air museums and the Orava Reservoir
One idea for a full day in Slovak Orava is a scenic loop taking in Liesek, Oravice, Zuberec, Podbiel and Tvrdošín. Liesek is said to be the "Slovak pole of cold", but on warm July days that was hard to believe. Oravice is known for its thermal springs, where pools at the foot of the mountains offer relaxation for the whole family. The village is also the starting point of the trail into the Juráňova Valley, considered one of the most spectacular gorges in the Tatras. Zuberec, in turn, is a good base with plenty of accommodation and a place to stop for a meal. At the end of the valley there is a chairlift, and its top station marks the start of the route to the Roháče peaks. A hike of a few hours along the ridges lets you appreciate the beauty of the Western Tatras.
Lovers of traditional wooden buildings will certainly not be disappointed in Orava. In Zuberec there is an open-air museum, the "Museum of the Orava Village", which brings together more than 50 wooden buildings. In Tvrdošín a 15th-century wooden church has survived (inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2008), and right by the main road that runs through Orava, in the village of Podbiel, stands "Bobrova ráľa", a complex of historic rural buildings.
Námestovo is a summer holiday centre on the shores of the Orava Reservoir, a vast artificial lake and the largest in Slovakia. The dam that created it was built in 1941 - 1954. What remained above the water is an island, Slanický ostrov, known as the "island of artists", which you can reach by boat. In summer Námestovo is buzzing with life, with concerts and attractions to suit every taste.
Kubínska hoľa, Jánošík and Orava Castle
Dolný Kubín makes a good base for discovering more of Orava's attractions. It is a district town in the valley of the Orava river. Just 9 km from the town lies Kubínska hoľa. In winter people ski there, and in summer you can rent electric mountain bikes, mountain scooters or off-road trikes. There is no problem taking them up on the chairlift to the top station and then riding back down the slope. I have to admit that coming down on a trike gives you quite an adrenaline rush. You can put it into a gentle drift, because the right and left wheels are braked independently. Just below the top station of the lift is the start of the zip line, which is said to be the longest in Europe: the ride covers about 1.5 km and you can reach speeds of up to 80km/h.
Dolný Kubín is also a great starting point for visiting places associated with Jánošík, the legendary outlaw. It is 29 km to Terchová, the village where he was born, and less than 10 km to Valaská Dubová, where he was captured, even though both lie on the border between Orava and its neighbouring regions. In Valaská Dubová, in the local koliba (a traditional mountain inn), you will find plenty of references to the famous highwayman. A little imagination is all it takes to travel back to the days when he "took from the rich and gave to the poor". After all, the legend is still very much alive on both sides of the Polish-Slovak border.
The best-known attraction in Orava is Orava Castle. It is one of the most picturesquely situated castles in the whole of Slovakia. It is also the only place in Orava that is besieged by tourists, as you can get into the other attractions with hardly any queue. Compared with the Polish side of the Tatras, it feels much less crowded among our southern neighbours. Even around midday you will easily find a parking space near whatever you want to see. The castle has several routes leading through the levels of fortifications that cascade down a huge rock. Restoration work in the lowest parts of the castle was completed in 2018. It uncovered beautiful Renaissance paintings that can be admired today, and some of the rooms have been turned into multimedia exhibitions. Concerts are sometimes held in the castle chambers. In 1973 Jerzy Passendorfer filmed the 7th episode of the Polish TV series.... "Janosik" at the castle.
Orava cuisine and accommodation
A stay in Orava would not be complete without tasting the local cuisine. Food in Orava is simple, based on whatever the poor soil can produce. But it is tasty, filling and authentic. You simply have to try the local flour dumplings known as "halušky". They are often served with bryndza, a soft sheep's cheese, but also with sauerkraut, in which case their name changes to "strapačky". Pirohy (similar to Polish pierogi) with a bryndza filling are delicious too. The most popular soup is "kapustnica", a sauerkraut soup. There is also a good choice of game. You can wash it all down with local beer, but I recommend trying Kofola. It is a relic of communist Czechoslovakia, but this copy of the then-forbidden Coca-Cola is still going strong and tastes superb when chilled.
Finding somewhere to stay in Orava is no problem. There are guesthouses around the Orava Reservoir, a good and inexpensive choice of accommodation in Zuberec, and Dolný Kubín and its surroundings have several hotels to choose from. It is also worth considering the beautifully located, well-kept "Oravsky Haj" resort, which covers a huge area on the outskirts of the village of Brezovica. It has a swimming pool and wellness facilities, a pond fed by a stream, a riding stable, a children's playground and a restaurant serving varied meals. Vegetables and fruit are grown on site and used in the kitchen. The resort consists of 8 wooden houses built in the traditional Orava style. A striking feature is a mighty mill wheel from 1921, beautifully preserved and built into the main building. All the buildings are set among lovely greenery and flowers.
A trip to nearby yet still little-known Slovak Orava can be a success in every respect. The Western Tatras, historic buildings, lifts that carry you up to the mountain tops in summer and fine examples of traditional wooden architecture are all within easy reach. Add tasty, home-style cooking and a good choice of accommodation, and you can be sure that a few days in Orava will make a lovely holiday for the whole family.
Read about the Slovak capital too - I wrote about Bratislava here.
