Slovakia's small, intimate ski resorts
Slovakia's best-known ski resorts include Jasná / Chopok, the High Tatras and Kubínska Hoľa. They are undoubtedly a powerful magnet, drawing crowds of skiers and offering enough for a whole active skiing holiday. They are described in more detail here. However, a mountainous country like Slovakia also has other winter sports centres that can be an interesting alternative to the most famous ones.
Donovaly
The Donovaly ski resort lies in the heart of central Slovakia, between the Low Tatras and the Veľká Fatra range. Thanks to the local microclimate, there is usually plenty of snow. And even when the winter weather is fickle, there is plenty to do in Donovaly.
The resort's official name is “Park Snow Donovaly”, and its pistes run down the slopes of two mountains: Nová Hoľa, with the resort's longest lift, the 1,312 m Telemix chair-gondola combination, and Záhradište, with a 774 m chairlift. There are also T-bar lifts that let you link runs and pick out the most interesting sections. They are also a great help for those learning to ski or snowboard. All in all, skiers and snowboarders can use 19 downhill runs of varying difficulty, prepared for beginners and professional skiers alike.
Donovaly is developing fast. New hotels keep opening, and there are smaller guesthouses too, so accommodation is available in the 2- to 4-star range. One of the best-located properties is the 4-star Hotel Galileo Donovaly, whose windows overlook the ski slopes.
On the ground floor there are several rooms styled as an exclusive English club, with heavy leather armchairs, subdued lighting and solid wood furniture. The British touch is completed by a room set aside for cigar smoking. On the top floor there is a well-designed wellness area, from which you can admire mountain sunsets.
In Donovaly many names are given in several languages, but that should come as no surprise. The resort lies at a similar distance from the largest cities in the region. It is easy to get here from Bratislava, Kraków, Katowice and Budapest. This gives the resort a somewhat cosmopolitan character, as Polish often mixes with Hungarian, and the Slovak hosts are ready for both.
Besides daytime skiing, “Park Snow Donovaly” offers evening and early-morning skiing. Evening skiing runs daily from 15:30 to 20:00. At that time DJs and après-ski parties liven up the slopes - even non-skiers will have a good time. And what about early birds? For them there is morning skiing on fresh snow, followed by a hearty breakfast. “Fresh track” is something good skiers will appreciate, as the concept combines superbly groomed slopes with a subtle touch of exclusivity. At “Park Snow Donovaly” it works like this: you click into your skis at 7:00, and until 8:30 all the slopes are open to a very limited number of skiers (a guaranteed maximum of 50 people). After the groomers' night shift, the organisers guarantee snowy “corduroy” on the runs. From 8:30, breakfast begins with a glass of champagne at the “Husky Bar”. Morning skiing is offered every Saturday.
The resort does not forget cross-country skiers either, with 5 cross-country trails totalling more than 30 km through scenic terrain. Depending on the weather, Donovaly also offers an ice rink, paragliding, dog sledding, snowshoe hikes and much more.
When evening comes, visitors to Donovaly are tempted by the local craft brewery. “Donovalský Pivovar” is fast becoming Donovaly's new calling card. The modern brewery with its restaurant opened in 2015 and today proudly serves several different craft beers, the most special being “Ujec”. It is intended as a tribute to the late Peter Šperka, nicknamed “Ujec”, who died prematurely: a Slovak high-altitude mountaineer, Tatra guide, member of the local mountain rescue service and organiser of ski mountaineering. His memory is still very much alive here.
Donovaly is an interesting ski destination for a wide range of skiers and snowboarders. Well-trained skiers will appreciate the steeper slopes and the chance to ski early in the morning, while the gentler slopes suit those just starting out. After skiing and in bad weather, the resort also has a lot to offer. Wellness centres, restaurants and the craft brewery are ready to welcome us to recharge our batteries and enjoy good company.
Winter Park Martinky
The Martinské Hole ski resort (Martinska Hola), also known as “Martinky”, covers an area between 1,150 and 1,456 m above sea level. The resort has 8 km of pistes served by 6 lifts. Its 12 downhill runs are certified as blue and red. There are also restaurants, ski hire shops and instructors who communicate easily in Polish.
A great strength of “Winter Park Martinky” is the ample natural snow, only slightly topped up with artificial snow. A curiosity of this resort - located above the town of Martin - is its unusual access. A scenic panoramic road leads up here, with alternating one-way traffic. You drive up between 6:00-12:00 and 19:00-24:00, and down between 13:00-18:00 and 1:00-5:00.
Snowland Valčianska dolina
Just a 25-minute drive from Turčianske Teplice is the Valča Valley (Valčianska dolina). This easily accessible ski resort is ideal for beginners and for those who want to improve their skills. The runs lie at 510-830 m above sea level and form a network 4.7 km long. Four T-bar lifts and a four-seater chairlift quickly carry skiers to the top of the slopes. The resort has a snowmaking system fed by a large reservoir, whose surroundings also make a lovely place for walks and jogging.
On a large meadow at the foot of the pistes there is a free car park, equipment hire shops and places to eat. In the most prominent spot, right next to the reservoir, stands the 4-star Hotel “Impozant” with a multi-purpose wellness centre.
Jasenská dolina
Besides the resorts mentioned above, another worth listing is the Jasenská Valley (Jasenská Dolina), at 530 m above sea level. This valley has also been partly adapted for those who want to enjoy the mountains in winter on skis or a snowboard. There are 6 lifts here, including a four-seater chairlift. The resort has made itself largely independent of natural snowfall: when temperatures allow, it produces enough snow itself. The valley is very well suited to cross-country skiing.
The resorts mentioned above, “Winter Park Martinky”, “Snowland Valčianska dolina” and “Jasenská dolina”, are in Slovakia's Turiec region. The region lies in north-western Slovakia, in the Turiec Basin, through which the Turiec river flows. The basin is bordered by the Kremnica Mountains, the Žiar Mountains and the ridges of the Malá and Veľká Fatra. Many consider it one of the most picturesque areas of Slovakia, with the potential to attract tourists in both winter and summer. There are 2 national parks and 34 protected areas here. The Malá Fatra and Veľká Fatra National Parks are among the most valuable areas in Slovakia.
The region is rich in natural mineral waters as well as healing thermal springs in Turčianske Teplice, which has a wide range of accommodation of varying standards. At the very top of the range is the 5-star Hotel Royal Palace. This carefully restored historic building offers luxurious rooms and food of the highest standard. Medical spa treatments are offered on site.
Right next to the hotel is a public water park, connected to it by a heated, covered walkway. It is the only place in Slovakia where an aquapark uses water with healing properties. There are two pools (the Folk Pool and the Red Pool) built directly over mineral springs. The outdoor pool (25 m) has water jets, massage nozzles, hydromassage loungers and a wild river. There are also two slides, “Kamikaze” (47 m) and “Action Movie” (97 m), with sound and lighting effects.
Poland's southern neighbours offer good infrastructure, well-prepared slopes and plenty of things to do after skiing or when the weather turns. It is worth considering both the most renowned ski centres and the smaller ones, which can also give you plenty of fun on skis or a snowboard.
