Athens - modernity, exoticism and the legacy of antiquity
Athens is an interesting choice for an autumn or spring weekend among ancient monuments, pampered by warm weather and enjoying Mediterranean cuisine, which is considered the healthiest of all. A trip to the Greek capital will satisfy more than just lovers of ancient ruins. Many will appreciate what it offers after dark, while others will want to extend their stay with a boat trip to one of the nearby islands.
The Acropolis and the combined ticket to ancient sites
The 'You belong in Athens' campaign harks back to what we learned at school. After all, it is hard to imagine the culture, art and code of conduct of today's Europeans without reference to the legacy of ancient Greece.
The most important monument in Athens is the Acropolis hill, and no visit to the city is complete without exploring this complex of temples. Around the Acropolis there are several other places worth visiting. Hadrian's Library, the two Agoras - Greek and Roman - and the ancient stadium should certainly catch your attention. It is worth stressing the practical side of visiting the ancient sites. Most attractions require a ticket, and a ticket to the Acropolis costs 20 euros. For just 10 euros more, you can visit 6 additional archaeological sites over 5 days, places where the Athenians went about their lives 2,000 years ago. This package saves you as much as 34 euros.
Central Athens: the fish market and the changing of the guard
Athens has much more to offer than the history written in the walls of its ancient ruins. A distinctive feature of the city centre is the multitude of small shops, often selling a specific range of related goods. This kind of trade brings the Greek metropolis closer to other cities of the eastern Mediterranean and sets it apart from the central and northern Europe we know so well. Strolling through the maze of streets, you can feel as if you were in a city in Lebanon, Syria, Egypt or Morocco. It is worth embracing this local colour and enjoying the unexpected touch of the exotic.
Right in the centre of Athens, a few hundred metres from Omonia Square, walking along Athinas Street you will pass the large market halls. On the left is the fish and meat market, and on the right the fruit and vegetable market. The fish stalls occupy the central part of the hall, while the meat stalls surround them in the side alleys. The vendors sing the praises of their goods and the buyers turn their noses up a little, creating a noisy spectacle. It is a place tourists love to drop into to take photos and get drawn into a chat with the sellers. Around the halls, small restaurants have set up shop where you can eat an inexpensive fish meal.
The changing of the guard at the Athens Parliament takes place every hour, and every hour it draws a sizeable crowd of onlookers. Although usually only four soldiers take part in the ceremony, it is extremely spectacular (on Sundays at 10:30 you can see the whole garrison). You will be impressed by how perfectly synchronised the soldiers' movements are, even though they are often far apart from each other while standing guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is located here. Watch closely and admire the skill and precision of the members of the Greek guard of honour. After the ceremony you can walk on to the beautiful park behind the Parliament buildings, which offers a cool refuge on hot days and in the cooler seasons remains a good place for a relaxing stroll.
Plaka, Psiri, Exarcheia and the NEON museum
After a full day of impressions, evening inevitably arrives, and Athens changes its face. The city's nightlife centres on several areas where whole blocks of narrow streets have been closed to traffic, turned into pedestrian zones and handed over to the owners of clubs and small restaurants, who have created an unbroken line of open-air tables. Plaka, at the foot of the Acropolis, has been known to tourists for years, but other places are worth a look too, such as Psiri. There, the residents of the Greek capital mingle with visitors. The atmosphere is unpretentious, and everyone will find a spot to suit them. Visitors to Athens are slowly beginning to discover a new area, Exarcheia. It has a unique atmosphere created by Athenian subcultures that refuse to follow the mainstream. Expect to hear live music from niche genres. Whichever district you end up in, you can count on cocktail bars, small restaurants and all kinds of bars, wine bars and fast-food joints.
What is worth seeing outside the city centre? Athens has joined the trend of returning old factory buildings to public use. The NEON contemporary art centre was created on the site of a closed cigarette factory. Its vast spaces and large halls make it possible to display large-scale installations. In autumn 2022, 19 intriguing artistic visions were presented there. It is easy to agree with the exhibition's premise that 'great works are like unattainable dreams'. Both figuratively and literally, we often give up pursuing them because they demand too many sacrifices, and in the end we focus on smaller things. After the exhibition, all the works will be handed over to several museums around the world.
Where to eat: Klimataria, Diporto and souvlaki
The Greek capital's culinary scene is rich, and there is plenty to choose from. The 'Klimataria' taverna opened in 1927. From the moment you cross the threshold, you feel as if you have left the noisy city behind and found yourself on one of the idyllic Greek islands. The extensive menu makes it hard to decide quickly, but the melt-in-the-mouth lamb seems a must.
Another exceptionally interesting place is 'Diporto'. More of an eatery than a restaurant, it is in a basement and has no sign. There is no menu, and the 'dish of the day' is presented by the only waiter on site. Although the choice is yours, you will be left with the impression that he decides for you what ends up on the table anyway. It will often be dishes based on beans and chickpeas. There are no set opening hours, so there is usually no point turning up after 16:00, as the kitchen will already have served all its meals. For a quick lunch, 'Kostas Souvlaki' is excellent, serving food "to go" for 3 euros. This small place with a few tables outside is on the little Agias Irinis square, which has been brought back to the city from complete ruin with great success and is buzzing with life today.
A boat trip from Piraeus to Aegina
It is worth considering spending a few hours or days on one of the islands, especially as they are very easy to reach by boat. You can now get to the port of Piraeus on two metro lines (green and blue). The opening of new stations on the blue line in October 2022 means you can travel directly from the airport to the port without changing. Even Aegina, the island closest to Athens (45 minutes by hydrofoil), is well worth a visit. The main harbour is surrounded by a semicircular waterfront packed with bars and tavernas. In the second row you will find shops and travel agencies. There are beaches right by the harbour, and touring the island and its sights on a hired scooter takes 4-5 hours. (If you would like to read about the island of Kos, take a look here )
Athens can be one of the more interesting European options for a long weekend. Many of us will be keen to see with our own eyes the material heritage left behind by ancient Greece. The bustling city, whose daily rhythm is closer to that of North Africa or the Middle East, will offer a hefty dose of the exotic. The modern metro system makes getting around easy, and the proximity of the port of Piraeus will tempt you to add an island experience to your stay.
