Brussels - from the European Parliament to the glorification of peeing
Brussels has a few places you absolutely have to see; it is also worth eating and drinking something typically Brussels and discovering some charming if less obvious spots. You can start with serious matters, such as the European Parliament, or with tongue-in-cheek ones, such as the statues glorifying peeing.
We often arrive in Brussels by landing at Charleroi airport, served by Wizzair from Warsaw Chopin (Okęcie) and Ryanair from Warsaw Modlin. Although Charleroi Airport proudly calls itself Brussels South Airport, it is 55 km from the centre of the Belgian capital. It is worth considering hiring a car at the airport, as the bus transfer costs 17 Euro one way (Belgian motorways are toll-free)
The Atomium and bilingual Brussels
Once you reach Brussels, you will certainly have to visit the Atomium. This iconic structure is one of the symbols of Brussels. Built in 1958, it shows no sign of its age at all; it impresses from afar with its size and from close up with the craftsmanship of its joints. For Expo 58 a monstrous model of an iron atom was created. Several silver spheres connected by tubes rise above the exhibition grounds on the edge of the city. The whole structure is 102 metres high, the spheres have a diameter of 18 metres and the tubes connecting them are 3.30 metres across. A pavilion was built at the base, which, like other parts of the structure, is used for temporary exhibitions. You can reach the Atomium on metro line 6, getting off at Heysel/Heizel station, 300 m away.
I mentioned the bilingual name of the metro station... you come across Brussels' bilingualism everywhere. Information for residents has to be displayed in Flemish and French; all street names are duplicated, as are bus and tram stops and all traffic disruption notices. Despite formal bilingualism, French dominates in Brussels. This situation somewhat irritates the Flemish part of society; waiters, shop assistants and officials are obliged to hold a conversation in Flemish, but they often don't know the language well enough. The truth is that Flemish Belgians make an effort with French, but unfortunately French-speaking citizens treat Flemish as a poor relation.
Grand Place, Manneken Pis, fries and mussels
The old town of Brussels is a tangle of streets and alleys surrounding the so-called Grand Place. The square itself is charming, surrounded by beautifully restored town houses. I remembered it from years ago, but this time it seemed much smaller than the one in my memory. Reserved exclusively for pedestrians and horse-drawn carriages, it is always full of tourists. The square is dominated by the Gothic town hall, surrounded by 17th-century merchant guild houses. The Town Hall also houses the tourist information office; unfortunately, maps of Brussels are only for sale there, so it is better to pick up a free one from the reception of one of the hotels (if you prefer paper to a mobile app). It is worth looking from a distance and studying the details of the buildings, where each guild wanted to tell a different story through nuances of architecture and, in a sense, present itself. The haberdashers' guild, the boatmen's guild, the carpenters' and coopers' guild, the guilds of bakers, painters, brewers... all of them could afford expressive headquarters in the very centre of the city.
Brussels has three statues glorifying peeing, all of them in the old part of the city. The most famous is the peeing boy (Manneken Pis), who has "adorned" one of the street corners since the 17th century. The peeing girl (Jeanneke Pis), unveiled in 1987, is beginning to rival him in popularity. And then there is also the peeing dog... (Zinneke Pis). The last one is an artistic response to the other two. The artist intended the mongrel relieving itself on the pavement to symbolise, in a somewhat absurd and surreal way, the multicultural character of Brussels. It is a Brussels custom to present the boy statue with costumes and dress him in outfits linked to the festivals of different cultures or other occasions. There are now so many of these costumes that a separate museum has been created for them.
Time for something to eat and perhaps drink. You will find fries, mussels, waffles and beer in lots of places. They say the best mussels can be eaten off the beaten track, for example in the working-class and artistic Marolles district. I went for the "tourist menu", namely "fries + mussels, served by a polyglot Arab waiter in a <<real>> Brussels restaurant near the famous Grand Place". In other words, everything in one. All for 10 Euro. If you want to try Belgian fries elsewhere, head for Frietland, Chez Antoine or Friet Flagey. Beer... well, hats off (in Brussels they would probably say chapeau bas ) If you have a strong head and a toilet nearby, you can choose from as many as 2,000 (!) Belgian beers. Set your satnav for Delirium Cafe or Booze'n Blues. Cheers!
The European Parliament and the House of European History
A visit to the European Parliament is more interesting than you might think. And completely free, too. The institutions are very well prepared to receive visitors. Audio guides, like leaflets and maps, are available in all EU languages. Take some "European" lanyards and postcards as souvenirs. You start the visit at Station Europe. This is the oldest building in the complex, a former railway station that served trains between Brussels and Luxembourg. That is where you begin, finding out what you can see and when, and then you usually go to the plenary chamber and the House of European History. You know the former from frequent television reports, while the latter, by contrast, is set in a beautiful park behind the main buildings. You should allow at least an hour to visit it; every visitor is given a tablet that explains the exhibition. A modern building, visually attractive exhibits, excellent lighting and interactivity are the hallmarks of the House of European History. What is pleasing is that you come across plenty of Polish references everywhere. Fittingly, the largest square between the buildings is called the Solidarność 1980 Esplanade.
Place Sainte-Catherine and Halles Saint-Géry
When you have had enough of ticking off sights, it is worth sitting down somewhere, watching the people of Brussels and enjoying a glass of good beer. I recommend two places where the views will certainly please the eye. Place Sainte-Catherine and the Quai au Bois à Brûler leading off it, with an interesting fountain and water basins, are very picturesque. Small restaurants occupy the ground floors of most of the houses. Unlike those closer to the Grand Place, they often stay in the hands of the same family for generations and serve traditional Brussels menus. They are charming and beautifully lit after dark, and just watching the bustling waiters, the businessmen at lunchtime and the guests arriving for evening dinners is an absorbing spectacle.
Halles Saint-Géry is a covered market hall from the end of the 19th century. This spacious glass-and-iron building is a beer hall, gallery and café all in one. Sitting inside, you listen to the murmuring fountain in the middle of the hall, while large crystal chandeliers hang from the high ceiling. For at least several dozen metres around the hall, the pavements and little squares have been turned into open-air cafés and beer gardens. It is a very charming part of Brussels.
Bilingual, multicultural Brussels is certainly an interesting city. Apart from monuments that more or less resemble those you find in other European capitals, it offers a few places that are unique. The European Parliament, the statues of peeing figures and... fries, beer, waffles and mussels make the Belgian capital a one-of-a-kind place well worth a visit.
