Marseille - a city break in France's second largest city
Marseille is a good choice for a city break. If you go in the warmer months, you can enjoy the city's beaches. Even in November, when the sun is shining, the beaches fill up. It may not be Paris, but France's second largest city has a lot to offer. The fact that it has "been through a lot" and has plenty of character only adds to its distinctive flair.
The Le Panier district and navettes
The Le Panier district is made up of narrow streets, small squares, little bars and alleyways. Some spots are very reminiscent of Naples, which I described here. Marseille in fact argues with the Italian city, citing examples to show that pizza is part of its culinary tradition too. Not long ago Le Panier was a no-go area where people were afraid to set foot - today things are different: the people of Marseille are no longer afraid to come here, and tourists often drop by. After all, it is one of the few pockets of very old buildings that were not destroyed in the Second World War.
There is a lot of graffiti in protected, historic Le Panier. In one of the alleys I came across some young lads "at work". When I wanted to capture them and their handiwork on camera, instead of punching me in the face, as was the custom not so long ago, they calmly pulled their big hoods over their heads, covered their faces and stepped out of the frame....
Near one of the streets leading to the historic Le Panier district is the traditional bakery 'Les Navettes Des Accoules', which makes the local delicacy, navettes or "little boats". They are long and spindle-shaped, taste a little like sponge biscuits but are closer to rusks in hardness. The recipe often remains a closely guarded secret of the bakery.
Notre-Dame de la Garde, Château d'If and MUCEM
Two churches in Marseille deserve the most attention. On top of a hill, the neo-Byzantine Notre-Dame de la Garde towers over the city. The best way to get there is on the little tourist "train" that runs from the port. A huge statue of the Virgin Mary crowns the 46-metre bell tower. Inside, models of boats, fishing vessels and coastguard helicopters hang from the ceiling, and outside there is a plaque commemorating the visit of the Polish Pope, John Paul II.
La Major Cathedral stands right by the port - you can see it perfectly from the square in front of the MUCEM. Inspired by Tuscan models, it has layered bands of stone.
The fortress and island of If were made famous by a man who... never existed. For it was the fictional hero of "The Count of Monte Cristo" who was imprisoned - in the pages of the novel - on the island of If by its author, Alexandre Dumas. Today a visit to the island is an important part of any sightseeing programme in Marseille. Boats leave the Old Port several times a day, and you explore the fortress on your own, spending as much time there as you like. The boat trip lets you see the city from the sea, the fortress is picturesque, and its interiors are well preserved.
A lot has changed in Marseille since 2013, when the city - together with Košice in Slovakia, which I have also written about - held the title of European Capital of Culture. The most spectacular project was the construction of the MUCEM, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations. The MUCEM is not only a museum showing the links between southern Europe and the Mediterranean basin, but also a great place for a walk, as its promenades have opened up new views of the city's historic buildings and the port. The museum's modern form blends beautifully with the mighty cathedral in the background, and it is connected to the historic Fort Saint-Jean.
Le Corbusier's Unité d'Habitation and Arab Marseille
Le Corbusier's building in Marseille was built between 1946 and 1952 and, like the architect's other similar works, it was a breakthrough. No one before had thought of creating "housing units" (Unité d'Habitation) in this way. The building has 337 two-level flats, which today are among the more expensive in Marseille. Its characteristic features are the way this huge building is raised on concrete piles, the use of the roof as a terrace and the inclusion of offices, a nursery school, a hotel, shops and restaurants. Three levels are open to tourists: the ground floor, the 3rd floor (shops and hotel) and the 9th floor, which has a viewing terrace. I must say honestly that the concept of this building delighted me, especially as I saw in it the forerunner of the thousands of blocks of flats that still dominate the whole of Poland today.
Marseille has several faces, and one of them is formed by its Arabic-speaking neighbourhoods. From what I observed, part of the city centre and the districts further north have a distinctive character of their own, with market stalls, shops selling Arab clothing, cafés and eateries (generous portions and good prices). Contrary to the stereotypes, I never encountered hostility or unfriendliness anywhere there, even though I watched street life with interest, took photographs and struck up conversations.
Staying near the Vieux Port and Marseille souvenirs
It is best to look for accommodation near the Old Port, as there are many attractions around the Vieux Port and it is also an important transport hub (trams, metro). I chose the Hotel Meininger, which offered the best "value for money". The rooms were larger (especially the bathroom) than those I knew from other budget chains. Breakfast (9 EUR extra) is almost... a feast. It can keep you going for nearly the whole day. If you don't opt for breakfast, there is a well-equipped communal kitchen on site, as well as a laundry.
An interesting souvenir from Marseille is soap, which comes in various scents, with olive and lavender leading the way. Around the Old Port there are many places where colourful soap is displayed on the shelves. And don't forget the aniseed spirit pastis. The most popular is Pastis Ricard, made since 1932 by Marseille-born Paul Ricard.
Marseille is an interesting option for a weekend break. Although it is weighed down by a poor image and the endlessly repeated opinion that it is 'dirty and dangerous', the city can surprise you very pleasantly. The port, the churches, the museums, the prison island, the beaches, bouillabaisse fish soup. And the Calanques National Park, with its beautiful Mediterranean fjords, is not far away....
