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Bratislava - a city that is changing its face

Krzysztof Kowalski 4 min read

A visit to the ITF Slovakiatour travel fair was a good excuse to take a look at the changes that have recently taken place in the Slovak capital. The old attractions still draw tourists, but new places worth visiting have appeared too. The Bratislava region is also interesting enough to make a trip out of the city well worthwhile.

View of Bratislava Castle from the pylon of the bridge that houses the UFO complex
View of Bratislava Castle from the pylon of the bridge that houses the UFO complex

Bratislava and Vienna are a mere 60 km apart - no other two capitals in the world are this close to each other. Squeezed into the south-western tip of Slovakia, Bratislava uses Vienna's Schwechat airport, which lies halfway between the two cities. The cities are well connected: if not by car, comfortably along the motorway, you can take a coach or a fast catamaran along the Danube. In the latter case, the journey is an adventure in itself. Let us not forget that Bratislava - also unusually - borders two countries. The Hungarian capital is a little further away than Vienna, a 2-hour drive, but the Hungarian border lies right on the edge of Bratislava's Petržalka district.

The Old Town, UFO and the Eurovea district

The National Theatre in Bratislava
The National Theatre in Bratislava

Geographical proximity is one thing, but the historical ties linked to the "shared" Monarchy seem even stronger. Strolling around the attractive Old Town, you will notice cafés using the historical name Pressburg. Hungarian is often heard on the streets - for Hungarians, Bratislava is Pozsony. You will meet tourists and business people speaking many of the world's languages. If you know Slovakia from visiting its northern areas, closest to Poland, you will be surprised how progressive and cosmopolitan its capital is.

Old Town streets in Bratislava
Old Town streets in Bratislava

The Old Town has been a magnet for tourists for years and buzzes with life almost around the clock. There is hardly a café, pub or restaurant that has not "taken over" part of the public space by setting up a terrace or building a glazed annexe. At the turn of April and May it is warm enough in the city for many visitors to choose to eat or have a drink outdoors.

UFO is a restaurant with an incredible perspective, with an observation deck above it
UFO is a restaurant with an incredible perspective, with an observation deck above it

The "UFO" restaurant and observation deck has been attracting tourists for 50 years. This attraction will never grow old, and it is impossible to imagine a visit to the Slovak capital without going up to the top of the pylon of the suspension bridge spanning both banks of the Danube. The observation deck, 95 metres up, offers views over Bratislava, the Danube and two neighbouring countries - when visibility is good, you can see land up to 100 km away.

The world's most eminent architects were invited to design the new Eurovea district
The world's most eminent architects were invited to design the new Eurovea district

A fascinating place in the city is the modern Eurovea district, which is still growing. The post-industrial land along the Danube is gradually being transformed into a modern city, where architects are creating spaces that Singapore or Dubai would be proud of. One example is a group of three residential skyscrapers designed by the world-renowned Zaha Hadid studio. Next year the country's tallest building will be completed - the skyscraper is to be 168 metres high, with 46 floors. It will dominate the new part of the city. Eurovea is also the capital's new culinary hub, where most restaurants look directly onto the Danube. The old heating plant from the 1940s has been preserved within Eurovea - today this solid brick building contrasts with the glass towers and houses a café and an art gallery.

Svätý Jur - wine country of the Little Carpathians

Some of the buildings in the little town of Svätý Jur have been beautifully restored and usually house hotels, wine bars and cafés
Some of the buildings in the little town of Svätý Jur have been beautifully restored and usually house hotels, wine bars and cafés

A surprisingly short distance from the city, you find yourself in completely different surroundings. Just a 20-minute drive from central Bratislava lies the charming little town of Svätý Jur. It is a wine-making centre on the edge of the Little Carpathian hills. Set between two rivers, the town covers a large triangle whose buildings are now protected by law. Getting to know its intriguing history and interesting architecture is a good prelude to tasting the local wines. The historic residence on the main street is signposted as Kaštieľ Pálffy. The whole building has been beautifully restored - the cellars hold wines, and on the ground floor there is an excellent restaurant with justified ambitions of earning a Michelin star. There are also historic halls where, surrounded by valuable paintings, you can hold presentations, training sessions and conferences.

Svätý Jur also has places where time has stood still - and they have a great deal of charm
Svätý Jur also has places where time has stood still - and they have a great deal of charm

Bratislava and its surroundings are ready to welcome Polish tourists, offering interesting attractions. The deservedly popular ones, such as Bratislava Castle, the Danube, UFO and the Old Town, are joined by new ones, such as the nightlife, the food scene and the modern Eurovea complex. Close to Bratislava there are renowned spas and wineries offering tastings as well as facilities for training sessions, conferences and all kinds of events.

You will find more information about the Žilina Region here, and I have written about Bratislava here.

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